Tuesday, July 31, 2007

I JUST HUNG OUT WITH ANTON NEWCOMBE FROM THE BRIAN JONESTOWN MASSACRE!

Monday, July 30, 2007

Hakarl



One of the things I really wanted to do from early on was try hakarl, or putrefied shark, an Icelandic national dish. What I love about it is that it embodies a certain Icelandic resoluteness. With so few natural resources, Icelanders were forced to adopt an ethos of practicality, leaving no wasted portions of an animal. (Other examples include blood pudding, also found in Chinese cuisine, singed sheep's head, and soured ram's scrotum.)

Basically, the shark found in the waters around Iceland is poisonous, but Icelanders just weren't going to take no for an answer. Cleansing the shark of its poison requires a long process of curing and rotting - the effort they go to eat the damn thing amuses me to no end. And it's not even like it tastes good; it is notorious for its absurdly ferocious taste. I was surprised to find, however, that it isn't that bad: the flavor is somewhat like the smell of goldfish food flakes - fishy, but not in a gastronomic way. It's fishy in a that, well, just doesn't seem fit for human consumption. I have to say, though, that brennivin, a licorice-flavored hard alcohol usually accompanying hakarl, is infinitely worse.

Sunday, July 29, 2007

Back in Reykjavik

I saw Bjork and Matthew Barney at Sirkus last night! Most of you know I'm pretty indifferent towards Bjork, but I must admit that actually seeing her was pretty cool. I guess the trip is complete now.

Saturday, July 21, 2007

Monday, July 9, 2007

Holar

I am now in Hólar, a very small town (er... village?) in northern Iceland. It is achingly beautiful, small, and smells nice. When I say small, it's not like how Anacortes or Bellingham might be considered "small"; it's small as in we have to go to a neighboring town to buy supplies. Small as in it doesn't have a main street. It does, however, have a plethora of horses (there seems to be more horses than people). I miss the city muchly, but I find tremendous peace here. I've gone from the distracting restlessness of Reykjavik to the soothing, almost monastic regularity of Holar. I've taken to some lovely routines. I feel incredibly focused here - I can read for hours, wander about the valley, feed the horses, and write. I'm so far removed from everything - moving to New York, grad school, even Reykjavik itself has somewhat faded.

And so we go North...